Sunday, June 27, 2010

I'm Cultured like Yakult, Sucka!

*Note, this post was written several weeks ago, in fact DURING the Argentina-Mexico game, which brought us all to the conclusion that that we needed was for Chicharito to make fewer damn sandwiches and play more damn soccer. ** --The Editor

In light of the iminent slaughter of the Mexican team by the Argentinians, I think I should direct the topic away from fútbol and toward, uh, other pursuits.

Now, onto more intellectual issues. A museum exposition that I saw semi-recently was "The Invisible World of René Magritte" at Bellas Artes. Maybe I haven't posted a photo yet of Bellas Artes' magnificent orange dome, but I shall do so soon. Regardless I have a photo of the facade, and of one of the amazing wooden sculptures in exhibition outside. These 12 giant wooden heads are supposed to be the Apostles. As far as I can tell each is carved from a single piece of wood, which is to say they used some big damn trees to make this project, which makes my inner environmentalist a little sad, especially knowing a bit about the state of Mexican logging policy ("Log the fuckers!!!!"). Oh well. It's also quite close to the Torre Latinoamericana, an impressive skyscraper with a big antenna on top. Furthermore, the electric buses pass right by on Eje Central/Lázaro Cárdenas. Their little antennae fall off all the time just like the SF buses. Ah, a little bit of home right here in Mexico City.

Okay, so the Bellas Artes building is cool for various reasons, the first and most obvious of which is the exterior architecture, very old-and-made-of-stone looking, big, impressive, with the dichoso orange dome. Secondly, it's another prime and excellent example of the amazing sinking soils described in one of my July posts from last year (holy goodness, I've been here very nearly one whole year!!), as the building is in a funny little well. Thirdly, lots of people hang around in its marbly plaza, and I might remind you that México DF is make-out city, so sometimes you have to observe more tonsil hockey than you'd really like. Fourthly, it's right next to the Alameda, the park in downtown that is the subject of an amazing Diego Rivera mural available for goggling in a nearby museum. Fifthly, the interior contains these amazing art-deco-mexica designs and luxurious period interior design.

The permanent exhibit consists of 2 floors of murals: my favourite is the Diego Rivera one which features a serious-looking Charles Darwin hanging with his homie the chimpanzee, as well as various communistic, scientific and artistic figures of the pre-WWII 20th century. Giant cells and such.

Now, Magritte. The art of course was wonderful, because it was absurd, smooth-textured, oddly soothing in that trippy wild kind of way. BUT the coolest part, aside from the detailed descriptions of the artist's social life and personal history, was the interactive absurdist-art section. It was mainly designed for kids but we overgrown kids found it quite delightful ourselves.

First it featured a shelving unit for mislabeling things (as Magritte enjoyed doing in his day...). It contained everyday objects with profound or ordinary words pasted on labels in front of them, with a kid-friendly explanation that you don't have to call something what it really is, but that you can also use it as a placeholder for another idea. Cool, right?

The next part had a desk full of magazines, with instructions on the wall to cut out words at random and make absurdist poetry. Past that there was a series of giant plywood cards with pieces of images on them: fish head, horse shoulders, lady chest, business-suit crotch, chicken knees, mermaid tail, etc. which you were supposed to use to create physical non-sequiturs on your own body (for the photographic enjoyment of your friends and strangers!). Then there were mirillas, little diorama-boxes built into the wall with the tiniest peephole to see the tiny universe within, sometimes a little figure, or a rock, or whatever. Then , the ginormous blackbord. whereon you were supposed to draw figures. Finally, there was the wall of birds: in the center of the room was a long table with colorful pieces of paper and pencils, with instructions to write and/or draw about a dream you once had and cut out the piece of paper into the shape of a bird, and stick it to the wall. It was pretty cool, seeing little kids' dreams all over the place. I can never remember my dreams so I cut out a bird shape (okay, a duck, really...) and handed it off to marcos, who commenced to draw cockroaches with eyes on their backs (a super cool image, which later he created realistically in photoshop...). This we stuck to the wall.

Now of course for the life update. I'm still working like a dog 6 days a week, trying to live it up on my half-weekends (boy do I feel robbed!) but it's all good. My colleagues are awesome and so are most of my students; today I had an interesting mixture of students: an 18-year-old Nepalese girl and an army liutenent (who's one of my favorite students because he's just so out of control-- he's freakin' hilarious, even in his half-English). I teach kids pretty much every day for at least an hour, and they use this book called All Aboard, which is a pretty cool series, actually. Most of the adults use the book "Interchange" which is a sort of general-purpose life-English, with lots of stupid dialogues and things. Then there's "Market Leader," a British book about business and shit like that. They give me a lot of those classes because they're really into the jive of "hey look at us we have a Gringa! Aren't we special?" But it's cool; most of those students are pretty advanced and there's sometimes cool readings and interviews to listen to; and I can find cool stuff on the internet to supplement the book's hella square attitude (like the other day when I gave one student a short reading on Grameen Bank and microloans, and to another I gave an article about Gross National Happiness... you know, things like that).

Meanwhile, the fowl are getting fowler, fatter, and more sexually dimorphous. I'm bummed to announce that El Morado is indeed going to be a rooster, which means probably eating him younger than I'd like... and that means deciding how I'm going to do the slaughter and fast (where the hell can I go that nobody will see me?? Yargh). The tomatos are tired of growing and although they're small I think I'm going to go ahead and let them flower, throw on some more of the old NPK and see what happens. Next post I'll go on with my special fish-waste/crushed-corn prepared feed which is going to go on hiatus due to the fact that it makes the apartment smell like ASS even though it saves me a bucket of money. Le sigh.

Ah, last bit, tying chamba together with hacienda: the school is offering a summer day-camp in which there are about ten kids who I spent my friday teaching to garden, making little milk-carton seed beds, learning about plant anatomy, guessing plant smells, generally frolicking with dirt, and daring them to touch worms. All told, a pretty successful event that kept the kids rapt for a good hour and a halfish.

Okay, I send long-winded nostalgic greetings to California and all the many people I love who are still there. I toast the pecan-pulque I am currently guzzling to all y'all. Goodnight!

Friday, June 18, 2010

Viva México, Cabrones

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=czDDfAh67gs

Mexico 2, France 0. Take that, First World.

All the kids were running around during the first goal (62nd minute), which was an amazing clean goal, and I had invaded another teacher's classroom to watch the magic happen... his student didn't have homework for that very reason (they had made a bet: if Mexico wins the game, I won't give you homework). The guy who scored is called "El Chícharo," or, "The little pea", and he's very popular with my kids. The second was a penalty kick by Cuauhtemoc (GPG: KWAO-te-mock) Blanco, also lovely but a lot less exciting than an in-game goal, don't you think?

Tuesday, June 15, 2010

Wednesday, June 2, 2010

The Tianguis in Jardín Balbuena

Need a bra? Tianguis. Need sewing needles? Tianguis. Need your sugar high? Tianguis. Need groceries? Tianguis. Need breakfast? Tianguis.

Soy totalmente del tianguis.

Mondays and Thursdays are tianguis (GPG: TYAN-geese) days, and I'm not a religious tianguis-goer since most everything can be found cheaper at Mercado Jamaica, but it is a hell of a lot closer, a mere 3 minutes' walk from my bed, compared to the 15-minute schlep to Jamaica. Whatever, the tianguis remains awesome, because you get some sunshine, they sell clothes hella cheap (I mean 15 peso cheap, in the case of my work pants...) and blankets and shoes and other such second-hand essentials, these things being the exception to the everything-cheaper-at-Jamaica rule. Anyway, the tianguis has a distinct aesthetic advantage, being as it is a trippy tunnel of color with natural light and thick crowds of people (and of course, with Darach in mind, I must mention the magnificent sound collage of barkers barking, ladies chit-chatting, parents scolding children, children screaming and running around, dogs panting and yapping, comales (GPG: co-MAHL-es = basically a griddle or skillet) spitting and steaming, and tamale- or agua fresca-sellers wheeling their carts around, ice clattering in its jars.

There are several specific details worth mentioning:

1. Mexican candy is amazing. Like, really amazing. Because they sell it out of little colorful plastic buckets or baskets bulk-style, or maybe because it comes in every color texture and flavor you can imagine (though I will be the first to admit that the Mexican obsession with mixing fruit and chile will never cease to turn my stomach [especially after my barfy disaster with a chile-powder coated tamarind ball in La Reforma, Sinaloa two years ago], though regardless of my opinion it is an institution and not going anywhere). Or maybe because it's so cheap, obviously resulting in my future case of major diabetes (damn sweet tooth...). I just can't shake the feeling of happiness that scoops of rainbow-colored, multi-flavored candy brings to the deepest reaches of my soul.

2. Clothing. From old-lady bras to majorly fashionable shirts, hyphy funky-colored Nikes, hippie woven or leather bracelets, socks with cartoon characters, and huge piles of secondhand clothes with barkers screaming Bara bara bara bara baraaaaaaaa! (Cheap! => short for "barato" => GPG: bah-RAH-toe). So many damn colors, styles, patterns, fabrics, textures, and brand-fakery, you could never lose interest.

3. Pirated everything. Need I say more?

4. Food, glorious food! From basic foodstuffs, sacks of corn, sunflower seeds, flax, little bags of blue and white tortillas, tlacoyos and sopes (GPG: SOH-pays => fat tortillas with a tiny little rim of dough around the edge, for piling up with deliciousness), to arrays of leaf-on radishes, stacks of nopalitos (spines removed, of course), piles of pears, heaps of guanábana all spiky and green, hiding white sweet sticky pulp and big buttonlike seeds inside (often seen with plastic cups of pre-extracted pulp in little pyramids in front of the displays), ruffly bales of squash flowers, and fingery piles of carrots... mmm, oh and let's not forget the pollerías, the chicken stands, where they sell the emblematic yellow chickens of Mexico. Incidentally, the chickens are yellow because in the last stage of their lives they are fed the flowers of cempazuchil, the Mexican marigold, which imparts that sunny hue to their skin.

5. Finally and probably most importantly there's the element of the immediately edible: the food stands. Lots of vitamin T of course: tacos, tlacoyos, tlayudas, tortas and the like. Special food includes cemitas poblanas, which are effectively giant circular sandwiches on amazing sesame-dusted rolls with piles of Oaxacan string cheese, and a lovely little herb called pápalo (GPG: PAH-palo) (Porophyllum ruderale) which tastes, yes, like plant, but with kind of its own zing. Then there's the pre-cut fruit of every color you like, and the carnitas, the barbacoa, the seafood... okay, I'm going to bed before I drown in my own saliva.

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